1. Introduction
In today's society, ripped jeans are undoubtedly one of the most representative garments in the fashion industry. As the leading brand of jeans from major jeans manufacturers in the global market, including Levi Strauss & Co., VF Corporation, Diesel S.p.A, PVH Corporation and Uniqlo, etc. According to Levi's latest quarterly report, net sales are expected to grow 15% over the previous year for 2022, and there is a global trend of growth. The ripped jeans are a unique item in the ripped jeans category. Profits have been generated for the brand as a result of increased sales of ripped jeans.
The journey to becoming a popular consumer of ripped jeans is not an easy one, as it involves a number of ups and downs. Ripped jeans, for example, are a classic symbol of punk culture. During the late 1970s, when the Punk-rock movement was unraveling globally, ripped jeans emerged as the close cousin of distressed jeans. Punk-rock banks were at their peak, and many rock stars, such as the Beatles, Ramones and Sex Pistols, wore ripped jeans.
Denim became the preferred language of expression for many youths around the world who were feeling disoriented by conventional society. It was bands like Sex Pistols in Britain who championed the cause of denim and adorned denim pants and jackets with safety pins, buttons, and batches. It should be noted that torn jeans became synonymous with dissent and hippie culture. If punk-rock adopted torn jeans as their preferred form of expression, the '90s adopted the mantra of non-fashion in order to satisfy grunge's requirements. Over t-shirts, ripped, loose jeans were paired with pendletons. A similar trend continued into the 2000s, when ripped jeans became an integral part of the 'casual chic' aesthetic. Ripped jeans have been a favorite among musicians for many years, ranging from Iggy Pop to Curt Cobain and The Ramones. There was a prominent appearance of customized distressed, ripped denim in the 1988 video for 'Shake-your-thang' by Salt and Pepa [1].
Currently, ripped jeans are often associated with rebellious individuals and causes. Having it on implies a spirit of both grounded and rebellious at the same time.
In reviewing the previous literature, the following studies have been published on ripped jeans [2]: Culture analysis of ripped jeans, Chen Yue, Fan Zhou [3], Shavar Ghimiz and Ragged Jeans - The Paradoxical Metaphor of Film Costume in the Pakistani New Wave, and there is little literature that explores their rebellious and confrontational meanings in a comprehensive manner. As a result, a method for explaining the case study of torn jeans as a symbol of rebellion is proposed. The document summarizes the rebellious spirit involved in the process of change from the origin of ripped jeans to the transformation into a pop culture icon, and then presents more clearly the spirit behind ripped jeans as a pop icon. As a pop culture symbol, ripped jeans are explored in terms of their theoretical and practical meanings in the present study. Taking a different approach, this study provides some unique insights into the phenomenon of ripped jeans. Furthermore, this research will enhance the public's understanding of ripped jeans and provide a deeper understanding of the development of pop culture elements.
2. Case description
The ripped jeans have long been regarded as a symbol of fashion. As its development progresses, it demonstrates the rebellion of customers against mainstream ideologies and changes in fashion tastes. Due to this, ripped jeans have undergone a total of four major phases in their evolution as an expression of the rebellious spirit.
At the beginning of the Industrial Revolution in the United States, urbanization led many people living in rural areas to move to large cities and begin working in factories. In spite of this, the work in these factories was extremely demanding, and because wages were extremely low at the time, many workers were unable to replace their easily damaged cotton pants. In the wake of a hard day's work, the pants were often riddled with holes. In 1873, Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis were granted a patent for a new design of jeans that was strong and comfortable fabric. It was designed with brass rivets and leather labels, which later gained popularity. It became a trademark that distinguished it from all other jeans on the market.
As a result of urbanization during the Industrial Revolution, many people from rural areas moved to large cities and began working in factories. Nevertheless, the work in these factories was difficult, and the wages were extremely low at the time, so many employees were unable to replace their easily damaged cotton pants. After a hard day's work, the pants were often riddled with holes. The Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis patent were granted in 1873 for a new design of jeans that was strong and comfortable. The design included brass rivets and a leather label, a look that later became increasingly popular. And it became a trademark that clearly distinguished the jeans from all others.
Although the jeans had been in use for many years, the addition of copper rivets increased their durability and innovation. Following the expiration of Strauss and Davis' patent in 1890, other brands began producing their own versions of the popular jeans. The early days of jeans were marked by rips and other tears that occurred only during use. As a matter of fact, it was an indication that these individuals were engaged in manual labor and were living below the poverty line. As many American families were living on $400 to $500 per year during the 19th century, many working-class citizens were unable to afford new jeans when theirs developed holes or rips. Jeans were considered unfashionable and associated with low-income people due to their association with physical labor and durable clothing.
Nevertheless, the perception of denim and blue jeans began to change in the 1920s and 1930s. This shift was largely influenced by movies. Movie actors wearing jeans, such as John Wayne and Ginger Rogers, became household names. A material dispensation of World War II introduced jeans to the world in the 1940s, which romanticized the "cowboy life." The pants may have been associated with American culture, wealth, and status by American GIs who owned jeans that they were brought overseas and wore on their off days. In the 1950s, a decade of strict and conservative American society, denim acquired negative connotations primarily as a result of films such as James Dean's "Rebel Without a Cause" after World War II.
A continuation of this trend occurred in the 1960's, when jeans became the fabric of choice for the "hippie" movement of the counterculture. During this period, decorative jeans became popular, with many people applying images, appliques, and patches to their jeans. In the hippie movement, the symbol was essentially an anti-establishment symbol. They were worn by so many members of the movement as a symbol of solidarity with the working class, as they had been worn by working-class Americans for decades and centuries prior. Torn and "ripped" jeans did not become fashionable until the 1970s when the punk rock movement commandeered jeans. A London store called Let It Rock, owned by Vivienne Westwood and Malcom McLaren of Sex Pistols, was established in 1973 to sell clothing that was considered outside the mainstream of fashion [4].
However, the people who invented ripped jeans did not do so in order to show off their fashion sense. The fashion of cutting through denim was invented by Americans in order to express their resistance to the mainstream. Because in the economic sphere, reducing one's purchasing power of goods can be viewed as a subtle gesture to resist the high consumption society, denim would take a long time to wear out and would require renewal, but we wear torn denim out in a dignified manner, demonstrating a kind of disrespect for the high consumption society as a whole. The cultural significance of torn denim is greater than its economic significance. In the end, the torn denim becomes a symbol of the rebellious spirit of the rich, since the truly poor do not use fashion to proclaim their poverty. As fashion reflects people's social psychology, it is interesting to observe how the poor are always inclined to dress up, while the rich dress shabbily.
At last, teenagers express their rebellion by wearing ripped jeans. Ripped jeans are a symbol of the teen years. As children grow into teenagers, they undergo a number of changes. Teenage rebellion is generally characterized by strange hairstyles, copying others' attitudes and styles, trying out new fashions, and expressing one's personal style in other ways. Teenage rebellion is characterized by a search for identity. Nonconformity rebellion is often the result of teens who are trying to figure out who they are. It is more common for nonconforming, rebellious teens to experiment with things rather than follow what they perceive as the norm. The wearing of ripped jeans is a popular trend among rebellious teens.
As seen by their role models wearing ripped jeans, teenagers tend to perceive ripped clothing as fashionable, giving them the appearance of being social and appealing to their peers and society at large. In 2010, distressed denim jeans made a comeback and were rebranded as ripped jeans. The look was displayed on the catwalk by designers such as Diesel and Balmain, and upscale retailers like Harrods and Fenwick began carrying it. According to well-known designers, there has been a revival of Eighties fashions, including jumpsuits, high-waisted pants, and culottes. Nowadays, ripped jeans are so ubiquitous that even M and S stock them in bulk (often with patches underneath the rips to prevent cold knees) [5].
3. Analysis
In the 1970s, punk emerged as a political movement for the first time in Great Britain. Through artistic self-expression, people were able to rebel against the upper class. Traditional symbols of British elites, including the Union Jack and the tartan plaid of Queen Elizabeth II, were appropriated by these "punks.":
As the movement found its way across the Atlantic to the U.S., the American punks incorporated these elements — the anti-establishment ideals of British punk — into a movement that could be described as distinctly more artistic in nature as compared to their British counterparts. While British punks wore bright colors, the American style was more about self-expression and was characterized by pervasive darkness that contrasted sharply with societal norms at the time.
Westwood and McLaren could be called the originators of the “punk uniform,” the ripped jeans, of that period, that would define punk’s visual style. Their clothes represented the different spirits of punk: disruptive, aggressive and authentic to its aesthetic.
In that period, Westwood and McLaren were the innovators of the ripped jeans that characterized punk's visual style. The clothing of punk bands reflected its distinct spirit: disruptive, aggressive, and authentic.
During the 1970s, punk fashion was a powerful response to the older generation before them. It was considered oppressive and old-fashioned by them to wear the clothing of their parents. It was not long before punk fashion was seen as a form of cultural waste and a form of deconstruction. The punk subculture turned its backs on the fashion norms of the day. Torn pants, ripped shirts, neck chains, outrageous body piercings, and leather jackets adorned with pins and spray paint characterized the 1970s. In the mid-1970s, the new New York sound and style came into focus through the Ramones (who created a uniform of shredded Levi's 505 jeans and black leather jackets), Television (whose guitarist Richard Hell was among the first performers to rock spiked hair and torn T-shirts held together by safety pins), Blondie (fronted by Debbie Harry, who pioneered high-low mixes of Levi's and designer pieces), and other groups that orbited divey clubs like CBGB [6].
As many subcultures adopted this trend in the 1980s, its acceptance grew year after year until it reached its peak with the grunge culture at the end of the 80s and beginning of the 90s. During the 1990s, punk fashion was evolving while maintaining its staple style of ripped jeans, leather jackets, and hardcore messages of rebellion. At this time, the grunge movement was taking shape. Typical grunge clothing included flannel shirts, Dr. Martens, and untamed hair [7].
The development of ripped jeans in punk fashion represents an upward spiral, with more and more people embracing this style. With the passage of time, the public does not accept the ripped jeans that represent elements of punk fashion, and then slowly begins to recognize their special properties, and then finally accepts their uniqueness.
Ripped jeans are widely accepted due to their physical characteristics. There is a common perception that clothing is an extension of one's physical self and is a fundamental component of one's self-image. Widely adopted ripped jeans were utilized to enhance body contours. By reshaping the body into a triangular shape, it can help lift the buttocks and tighten the lower portion of the body due to the characteristic of denim texture and torn appearance. The choice of this particular garment will not be influenced by the age group of the wearer. A comfortable texture that moves with the body while hiding blots is also attracting a large number of customers today. Furthermore, this seems to be a continuation of the past characteristic of this garment that laundering can be performed according to personal preferences rather than being required. As a result, wearing such fashionable products that can enhance body image and are not easily faded reflects the legacy and virtues of ripped jeans [8].
4. Suggestions
As viewed from the consumer's perspective, torn jeans are a product of the explosion of ideas and opportunities throughout history. However, with respect to current fashion wear, people's opinions about ripped jeans and the way to convey fashion through this unique garment are not universally accepted.
There is still some doubt about the extent to which ripped jeans can be construed as an expression of rebellion in today's society. There are huge differences between people's perspectives on fashionable dressing in the twenty-first century, due to fragmentation in fashion opinion and the loss of absolute definitions of fashion as more and more fashionable products emerge. "The Guardian" notes that fashion trends change from season to season, which is why following them can be as interesting as following sports, celebrity news or other areas of interest that change with a group following. As a result of clothing's ability to express attitudes and values, fashion offers individuals the opportunity to express themselves artistically and personally, due to its ability to express attitudes and values. Although this type of pants is still considered an exclusive part of rock and roll culture, the average person can only see these types of pants, which are now readily available, as clothing that enhances the appearance of glamour and provides convenience to those who have not been exposed to their historical significance [9].
There has also been a shift in meaning in the world as a result of the widespread popularity of ripped jeans. Initially, people wore ripped jeans to express their dissatisfaction with class, then people of different classes began to accept ripped jeans, and finally ripped jeans became prevalent in society. Today, ripped jeans are a very common item of clothing that people wear on a daily basis. Some people wear ripped jeans in order to have a distinctive look, others wear ripped jeans in order to be cool. As the popularity of the movement increased, the original purpose of the distinctive expression of rebellion gradually disappeared.
Based on the producer's perspective, the dilution and transformation of the rebellious spirit of ripped jeans has been caused by the interaction with consumers. It is imperative that producers continue to support the widespread popularity of the merchandise. It is the producer's responsibility to produce and increase sales in accordance with consumer demand. The growth in sales and diversity of styles can be attributed to the popularity of ripped jeans as well as bringing more economic benefits to producers. Its popularity can be seen in the increase in sales and the variety of styles available. Gigi Hadid and Jennifer Aniston have worn ripped jeans at various events and parties. Moreover, this celebrity effect indicates a change in the spirit of ripped jeans, as well as the success of the manufacturer's marketing campaign.
It should be noted that ripped jeans have indeed become a cultural symbol of pop culture, despite their relatively low popularity. More specifically, it is a symbol of fashion, a popular fashion item, which is contrary to the original meaning of revolt and rebellion. Ripped jeans have lost much of their rebellious appeal as a result of this trend. It has been the Internet that has played a key role in bringing niche culture into the mainstream and dissolving it. A transition of mainstream culture to the online environment was initiated by the authoritative opinion leaders of the mass media during the early development of the Internet. Due to the popularity of mobile media and various platforms for account registration, the class of Internet users shifted downward and diverse groups were given the opportunity to express their opinions. Increasing popularity of mobile media has contributed to the development of niche culture [10].
The young Generation Z group has also become an important part of the Internet population. They have grown up in an era when the Internet has become increasingly popular, and their self-awareness has been enhanced as a result. Since they grew up in a time of Internet popularity and are self-aware, they pay a greater amount of attention to and love niche culture, which enables niche culture to develop. They have grown up in the era of popularization of the Internet, are self-aware, and have a greater affinity for niche cultures, which stimulates niche culture development in new media networks.
There is no doubt that mainstream culture reaches a large audience. The homogenization and lack of innovation in most mainstream entertainment culture activities result in aesthetic fatigue and a lack of curiosity. In the event that mainstream entertainment is homogenized, and not sufficiently innovative, aesthetic fatigue and curiosity may drive people to focus on niche culture circles, thereby generating a niche culture dividend.
5. Conclusions
Punk culture is characterized by the rebellious spirit of ripped jeans. At the beginning, it was primarily used as a paradigm for rebelling against the upper class and expressing self-awareness. In the past, ripped jeans have been distinguished by their changes in appearance and modifications. A pattern and the treatment of different parts of the rips became the characteristics that gave it its recognition, showing how it was the pattern and treatment of different parts of the rips that gave it its recognition. Since its origins in England and then in the United States, its spiritual expression has again been transformed from a pretty bright to a light appearance. The spirit of the band has been transmitted subtly over the years as it continues to resist society and keep up with the times. The band's dress code and the publicity generated by the brand's development for the most part have largely contributed to the consolidation and re-transformation of its meaning, demonstrating that in punk culture, the rebellion spirit of mostly ripped jeans specifically is influenced by a number of factors surrounding it in a significant way.
The rise of related accessories and the re-exaggeration of the look from the eighties to the nineties became widely accepted due to the emphasis placed on subculture. The original rebellious spirit of specifically ripped jeans also faded with the commercialization of modern society, which is why the band's dress code and the publicity generated by the brand's development have contributed greatly to the consolidation and re-transformation of its meaning, demonstrating that punk culture has a rebellious spirit influenced by many factors surrounding it, or so they thought.
References
[1]. Malik, E. [2021, March 21]. Explained: Ripped jeans - and everything about them. The Indian Express. Retrieved August 14, 2022, from https://indianexpress.com/article/explained/explained-ripped-jeans-and-everything-about-them-7235868/
[2]. Yue Chen, & Zhou Fan. [2017]. Cultural analysis of ripped jeans, 109–111.
[3]. Ya Zhuo. [2022]. Shavar Ghimiz and Ragged Jeans - The Paradoxical Metaphor of Film Costume in the Pakistani New Wave, 49–58.
[4]. Editor, E. P. | L. [2022, April 19]. The history of Ripped Jeans through the decades. Sidelines. Retrieved August 14, 2022, from https://mtsusidelines.com/2022/04/18/the-history-of-ripped-jeans-through-the-decades/
[5]. Deryl. [2021, September 22]. The 4 major reasons why people wear ripped jeans. denimshine. Retrieved August 14, 2022, from https://denimshine.com/the-4-major-reasons-why-people-where-ripped-jeans
[6]. Levi's®, P. by P. for. [2016, October 25]. Rip it to Shreds: A history of punk and style. Pitchfork. Retrieved August 15, 2022, from https://pitchfork.com/features/from-our-partners/9943-rip-it-to-shreds-a-history-of-punk-and-style/
[7]. Taylor Bazinet April 28, 2017 0 C. [n.d.]. Punk subculture & the fashion movement. Taylor Bazinet. Retrieved August 14, 2022, from https://taylorbazinet.com/punk-subculture-its-fashion-movement/
[8]. Rahman, Osmud. [2015]. Denim jeans: A qualitative study of product cues, body type, and appropriateness of use. 7. 53-74. 10.2752/175693815X14182200335691.
[9]. Howell, S. [2021, December 13]. Five reasons why people are interested in fashion. LEAFtv. Retrieved August 14, 2022, from https://www.leaf.tv/articles/five-reasons-why-people-are-interested-in-fashion/
[10]. Yuting Jiao. [2021]. An inquiry into the emergence of niche cultures into the public eye, 119–120.
Cite this article
Liu,X.;Zhang,X. (2023). Analysis of Rebellion Spirit of Fashion—— Taking an Example of Ripped Jeans. Communications in Humanities Research,4,69-74.
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References
[1]. Malik, E. [2021, March 21]. Explained: Ripped jeans - and everything about them. The Indian Express. Retrieved August 14, 2022, from https://indianexpress.com/article/explained/explained-ripped-jeans-and-everything-about-them-7235868/
[2]. Yue Chen, & Zhou Fan. [2017]. Cultural analysis of ripped jeans, 109–111.
[3]. Ya Zhuo. [2022]. Shavar Ghimiz and Ragged Jeans - The Paradoxical Metaphor of Film Costume in the Pakistani New Wave, 49–58.
[4]. Editor, E. P. | L. [2022, April 19]. The history of Ripped Jeans through the decades. Sidelines. Retrieved August 14, 2022, from https://mtsusidelines.com/2022/04/18/the-history-of-ripped-jeans-through-the-decades/
[5]. Deryl. [2021, September 22]. The 4 major reasons why people wear ripped jeans. denimshine. Retrieved August 14, 2022, from https://denimshine.com/the-4-major-reasons-why-people-where-ripped-jeans
[6]. Levi's®, P. by P. for. [2016, October 25]. Rip it to Shreds: A history of punk and style. Pitchfork. Retrieved August 15, 2022, from https://pitchfork.com/features/from-our-partners/9943-rip-it-to-shreds-a-history-of-punk-and-style/
[7]. Taylor Bazinet April 28, 2017 0 C. [n.d.]. Punk subculture & the fashion movement. Taylor Bazinet. Retrieved August 14, 2022, from https://taylorbazinet.com/punk-subculture-its-fashion-movement/
[8]. Rahman, Osmud. [2015]. Denim jeans: A qualitative study of product cues, body type, and appropriateness of use. 7. 53-74. 10.2752/175693815X14182200335691.
[9]. Howell, S. [2021, December 13]. Five reasons why people are interested in fashion. LEAFtv. Retrieved August 14, 2022, from https://www.leaf.tv/articles/five-reasons-why-people-are-interested-in-fashion/
[10]. Yuting Jiao. [2021]. An inquiry into the emergence of niche cultures into the public eye, 119–120.